Welding rod sticking to the metal: why it happens and how to fix it
A rod sticking to the plate is the number one problem for anyone starting with stick welding. The good news: it is almost never the machine. In the great majority of cases it is one of these five causes, and each one is fixed on the spot.
Raise the current 5 to 10 A, strike the arc with a scratch (like striking a match) and lift the rod right away to a gap equal to its diameter. Check that the work clamp is close to the joint and on clean metal.
1. Current too low
This is the most common cause. With too little current, the arc has no energy to sustain itself and the rod welds itself to the work. Starting points for mild steel, flat position:
| Rod | Current | To start |
|---|---|---|
| 3/32 in (2.4 mm) | 60–90 A | about 75 A |
| 1/8 in (3.2 mm) | 90–130 A | about 100–110 A |
| 5/32 in (4.0 mm) | 130–180 A | about 150 A |
Table 3.2 of the e-book The Welder's Forge. Starting point: confirm with the rod package. Full chart in the stick welding amperage chart.
2. How you strike the arc
If you touch the plate and stay there, the rod sticks. There are two techniques:
- Scratch start (the easiest): drag the rod tip across the plate like a match and lift as soon as the arc lights.
- Tap start: touch straight down and pull back fast. It leaves fewer marks, but it takes more practice.
The secret is the same for both: the lifting motion has to be immediate.
3. Arc too short
The right arc length is about equal to the rod's core diameter: roughly 1/8 in (3 mm) with a 1/8 in rod. Any closer and the rod shorts out and sticks. Remember that the rod gets shorter as you weld, so your hand has to keep feeding down at the same pace.
The right arc: a steady crackle, like bacon frying. A short arc pops and goes out all the time, and that is when the rod sticks.
4. Poor work clamp connection
The work lead closes the circuit. If the clamp is far from the joint, on top of paint or rust, or has a worn spring, the current reaching the arc is lower than what the machine shows. Clamp near the joint, on an area ground to bright metal. On a 120 V outlet with a long, thin extension cord the effect is similar: the machine loses power. Plug into a proper circuit instead.
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5. Damp rod or damaged coating
A rod that picked up moisture, or one with the coating chipped at the tip, strikes poorly and runs unstable. The 7018 is the most sensitive: it belongs in a rod oven, and the time it may spend outside depends on the maker and the code. The 6013 is more tolerant, but it should be stored dry too. How to store and dry rods is covered in 7018 rod storage: drying and rod ovens.
The rod stuck. Now what?
- Keep your helmet down: the arc can relight.
- Twist the electrode holder side to side until the rod breaks free. Do not yank it.
- If it will not break free, squeeze the holder open to drop the rod and switch the machine off before touching it. Always wear gloves: the rod is glowing hot.
- Clean the tip before striking again: a stuck tip is coated with slag and gets in the way of striking.
The open-circuit voltage of a stick machine is roughly 50 to 90 V, enough for a serious shock with a sweaty hand, a wet glove or a damp floor. Change and release rods only with dry gloves, never lean your body on the work, and have a licensed electrician handle any problem with the outlet or circuit.
Many inverters have anti-stick, which cuts the current when the rod sticks, and hot start, which gives a boost of current at the strike. If yours has them, check that they are switched on. For the full technique, see how to stick weld.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the rod stick when I start welding?
Does 6013 stick more or less than 7018?
Does a sticking rod mean a weak machine?
Can I reuse a rod that stuck?
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