TIG welding for beginners: setup and first welds
TIG is the cleanest, most precise arc process, and the one that asks the most from your hands. There is no spatter and no slag, and the bead can come out beautiful. In exchange, you control three things at once. This guide shows how to build that coordination from your first session at the bench.
Hold the torch at 75–80° from the work, keep the tungsten about one electrode diameter from the metal (1/16–1/8 in, or 1.6–3.2 mm) and feed the filler rod at 10–20° into the leading edge of the puddle, never into the arc. The rhythm never changes: dip the rod, pull back, move the torch forward, repeat.
How TIG works
In TIG (GTAW), the arc forms between a tungsten electrode and the work. Tungsten melts at about 6,200 °F (3,422 °C), the highest of any metal, so it does not burn away the way a stick electrode does. Pure argon shields the arc and the puddle. Filler metal is a rod you feed with the other hand. On some joints you need no rod at all: fusing the edges is enough (autogenous welding). Not sure TIG is the right process for you? Compare it in MIG vs TIG welding.
The three coordinations
- The torch holds the arc and travels along the joint, with the tungsten always the same distance from the work.
- The filler rod goes in and out of the puddle with your other hand, in time with the travel.
- The pedal (or fingertip control), if your machine has one, adjusts current mid-weld: more when the part is cold, less as the puddle grows.
This three-way coordination is why TIG is the hardest process to master. The good news is that you can train it in parts: torch only, then torch and rod, and the pedal last.
Angles and distances to start from
| What | Starting value | If you get it wrong |
|---|---|---|
| Torch angle | 75–80° from the work, tilted slightly in the travel direction | Poor gas coverage, hard-to-control puddle |
| Tungsten distance | About one electrode diameter: 1/16–1/8 in (1.6–3.2 mm) | Too close contaminates the tungsten; too far makes the arc unstable |
| Filler rod angle | 10–20°, at the leading edge of the puddle | A rod in the arc contaminates the electrode |
| Current, steel and stainless | DCEN (electrode negative) | n/a |
| Current, aluminum | AC (alternating current) | On DC the oxide will not let the metal melt |
| Lens shade | Shade 9–11 at 15–80 A | Too dark and you cannot see the puddle |
Section 5.4 and Table 2.1 of the e-book The Welder's Forge.
Setting up before you strike an arc
- Clean metal: TIG is very sensitive to contamination. Grind or sand to bright metal, then wipe off oil with solvent. Clean the filler rod too.
- Thin gloves: soft goatskin or deerskin TIG gloves give you feel on the rod.
- Argon: flow of about 15–20 CFH (7–9 L/min), enough post-flow to protect the end of the bead and the hot tungsten, and a spot with no drafts.
- Pointed tungsten for DCEN. Choose the type in tungsten electrode colors.
The complete e-book
Reference tables, stick, MIG/MAG and TIG technique and safety in one PDF, written in plain American English.
The stacked-dimes rhythm
The ripple pattern of a good TIG weld, often called "stacked dimes", comes from one steady movement:
- Form the puddle with the torch held still and wait until it turns bright and fluid.
- Touch the rod to the leading edge of the puddle.
- Pull the rod back, keeping its tip inside the gas shield.
- Move the torch forward a little and repeat.
If the ripple spacing varies, your rhythm is varying. Count out loud ("dip, out, forward") until the motion turns automatic.
Stop right away. Contaminated tungsten makes the arc wander and dirties the weld, and no technique makes up for it. Break off or grind away the tip, regrind and only then continue. Keep two or three pre-ground electrodes on the bench.
First exercises
- Puddle without rod: on clean mild steel plate, strike the arc and travel with the torch alone to make a fusion line. Goal: constant width.
- Bead with rod: repeat the line, now adding filler in the dime rhythm.
- Butt joint, no gap: two thin pieces touching, first fused with no rod, then with rod.
- Corner and T-joints: they force you to control torch angle so both faces melt evenly.
Sit down and rest your forearms on the bench. In TIG, a steady hand beats strength. For settings by thickness, use the TIG welding amperage chart as a starting point, then adjust by watching the puddle.
Keep the cylinder upright and chained to a wall or cart, with the cap on when it is not in use. Open the valve slowly with the regulator already fitted. TIG arcs give off strong UV even at low amperage: wear the helmet, safety glasses under it, long sleeves and keep bystanders behind a screen. Check the machine nameplate and match the circuit to its input current and voltage (120 V or 240 V).
Limits you should know
TIG is slower, deposits less metal, demands spotless surfaces and needs a machine with AC (and ideally pulse) if you want to weld aluminum. Above about 5/16–3/8 in (8–9.5 mm) it stops being productive and MIG/MAG makes more sense. It shines on stainless steel, aluminum and fine finish work. No article replaces hands-on training: have someone experienced watch your first sessions if you can.
Frequently asked questions
Is TIG welding hard to learn?
What angle do you hold a TIG torch?
How far should the tungsten be from the metal?
Do I need a foot pedal to TIG weld?
Want all of this in one PDF?
The e-book The Welder's Forge covers stick, MIG/MAG and TIG from the first arc to the shop floor, with reference tables and technical figures, in plain American English.
PDF for phone, tablet or computer · instant access · 14-day guarantee