How to weld a gate, step by step
On a gate, the welding is the easy part. What separates a straight gate from one that drags on the ground is preparation: the right measurements, square cuts and a frame that is truly square before the first final bead. This is the routine for a simple square-tubing gate built in the garage.
Measure, mark and cut square; lay the frame on a flat surface; tack first; check diagonals and level; weld after, alternating sides and ends. A 3/32 in (2.4 mm) E6013 rod or MIG with .030–.035 in (0.8–0.9 mm) wire handles the material.
Which machine and consumable
Fabrication uses thicker material (square tubing, angle, flat bar, 14 gauge and up) and forgives more than body work. It is natural stick territory, and stick tolerates wind outdoors, unlike MIG with gas.
| Option | Consumable | Starting point | Choose it when |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stick | E6013, 3/32 in (2.4 mm) | 60–90 A | Simple machine, outdoor work |
| MIG/MAG | .030 in (0.8 mm) wire | 15–19 V, 160–275 IPM (4–7 m/min), up to .080 in (2.0 mm) | Thin-wall tubing, shop work |
| MIG/MAG | .035 in (0.9 mm) wire | 18–24 V, 160–355 IPM (4–9 m/min), 1/16–3/16 in (1.6–4.8 mm) | Heavier tubing and angle |
Tables 3.2 and 4.2 and section 16.5 of the e-book The Welder's Forge. Starting points: confirm with the package and the machine manual.
Why E6013 and not E7018? See 6013 vs 7018. If you have never struck an arc with a rod, begin with how to stick weld.
The joints in a gate
A simple gate relies mainly on corner joints (the four frame corners) and T-joints (where the inner bars meet the frame). Hinge and latch mounts are also corner or T-joints.
Step by step: a simple tubing gate
- Measure the opening at the top, middle and bottom. Draw the gate with final dimensions, allowing for hinge gap, latch gap and ground clearance.
- Mark and cut square. A square and a tape measure matter as much as the welder. For 45° corners, cut every piece with the same setup.
- Clean the weld zones to bright metal: oil, scale, paint and zinc cause pinholes.
- Lay the frame on a flat surface (a bench or a level floor) and clamp it.
- Tack the four corners with small tacks.
- Check square: measure both diagonals. If they match, the frame is square. If not, fix it now while they are only tacks.
- Position and tack the inner bars at the marked spacing.
- Measure the diagonals and check level again.
- Run the final beads in balance: one corner, then the opposite one; one face, then the other.
- Weld the hinges and hardware last, with the gate straight and finished.
The complete e-book
Reference tables, stick, MIG/MAG and TIG technique and safety in one PDF, written in plain American English.
A tack is easy to fix: cut it with the grinder and tack again. A crooked bead running the whole length is a headache. This rule saves more time on a gate than any other.
Welding without warping
The heat of a bead shrinks the metal and pulls the structure toward that side. On a large frame that is enough to throw the hinges out of line. Weld in balance: alternate sides and ends, never run all the beads on one face in sequence and keep the clamps on until it cools. For thin-wall tubing, see welding square tubing.
Hinges and heavy gates
A gate swings on its hinges every day, and a large one weighs a lot. Use hinges rated for the load, weld them with full fusion and have a competent person review the design if the gate is heavy, tall or protects children or animals. If the gate has an automatic opener, disconnect the operator and its electronics before welding, and clamp the work lead on the gate itself so current never passes through the motor or bearings.
Sparks can travel 35 ft (11 m): clear dry grass, wood and anything flammable, or cover it with fire-resistant blankets, keep an extinguisher at hand and watch the area for at least 30 minutes after you finish (longer if your site rules or NFPA 51B call for it). Never weld with wet gloves, wet clothes or standing in water. Galvanized tubing needs the zinc ground off first and a P100 respirator.
Finishing: what makes a gate last
- Grind visible beads and remove spatter.
- Chip and brush the slag if you used stick.
- Degrease and prime with rust-inhibiting primer.
- Paint with an exterior coating. Protection from rain is what gives the gate years of life.
Frequently asked questions
What rod should I use to weld a gate?
Is MIG or stick better for a gate?
How do I know my gate frame is square?
Why did my gate warp after welding?
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The e-book The Welder's Forge covers stick, MIG/MAG and TIG from the first arc to the shop floor, with reference tables and technical figures, in plain American English.
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