Auto-darkening welding helmet: what shade to use and how to choose
The helmet protects your face, eyes and neck from arc radiation, spatter and heat. The lens shade depends on the process and the current: too dark and you cannot see the puddle; too light and your eyes tire or burn. An auto-darkening helmet lets you adjust the shade and darkens by itself.
Stick up to 160 A: shade 10–11. MIG/MAG: shade 10–12. TIG up to 80 A: shade 9–11. A variable helmet adjustable from 9 to 13 covers nearly all garage work. Look for the ANSI Z87.1 marking.
Lens shade by process
| Process | Current (A) | Recommended shade |
|---|---|---|
| Stick (SMAW) | 60–160 A | Shade 10–11 |
| Stick (SMAW) | 160–300 A | Shade 12–13 |
| MIG/MAG | 60–300 A | Shade 10–12 |
| TIG | 15–80 A | Shade 9–11 |
| Submerged arc (SAW) | 300–800 A | Shade 12–14 |
| Plasma cutting | Up to 400 A | Shade 11–14 |
| Oxyacetylene | — | Shade 5–7 (gas welding goggles) |
Table 2.1 of the e-book The Welder's Forge. The US shade scale matches the DIN scale. If you cannot see the puddle comfortably, go one shade lighter; if the arc feels harsh, go darker. Never go below the range in the table.
Fixed-shade or auto-darkening?
Fixed-shade (passive) helmet: the lens is always dark. It is inexpensive, durable and needs no battery. The drawback is that you must nod it down at the last second, and until then you cannot see the joint well.
Auto-darkening helmet: sensors detect the arc and darken the lens in a tiny fraction of a second, then clear it when the arc stops. You see the joint before you strike the arc, which makes learning easier and speeds up work with many tack welds. Shade is usually adjustable between 9 and 13.
If you invest in one thing, make it the helmet. Seeing the joint before the arc starts changes how fast you learn. The rest of the starter setup is in best welder for beginners.
What to check before you buy
- The ANSI Z87.1 marking on the helmet and on the safety glasses you wear under it. A plus sign after Z87 indicates the high-impact rating.
- Shade range of 9–13, ideally with a grind mode that keeps the lens clear.
- Sensors: two are fine for the garage; four cope better when one sensor is blocked in awkward positions.
- Sensitivity and delay controls. Delay is how long the lens stays dark after the arc stops. Sensitivity matters most in low-amp TIG.
- A clear, distortion-free view when you look through the lens at different angles.
- Power: replaceable battery, solar cell or both.
- Viewing area and a comfortable headband. You will wear it for hours.
- Easy-to-find replacement cover lenses. The outer lens takes the spatter and needs regular replacing.
The complete e-book
Reference tables, stick, MIG/MAG and TIG technique and safety in one PDF, written in plain American English.
Looking after an auto-darkening helmet
- Test before you weld. With the helmet on, check that the lens darkens when you strike the arc. If it fails, stop.
- Replace the outer lens when it is pitted with spatter or scratched: the view and the sensor response both get worse.
- A cracked lens does not protect. Inspect before every use and store the helmet clean and dry.
- Safety glasses underneath. When you flip the helmet up to chip slag or grind, flying fragments go straight for your eyes. Helmet up, glasses stay on.
Arc eye (photokeratitis) does not show up right away. Symptoms such as a sandy feeling, heavy tearing, pain and light sensitivity appear 6 to 12 hours after exposure. Wear the helmet for every tack, even a single one, and protect anyone helping or watching.
The helmet is only one part of your protection. Gloves, clothing, boots and a respirator are covered in welding PPE, and the welding for beginners guide shows where safety fits in the learning path.
Frequently asked questions
What shade should I use for stick welding?
What shade should I use for MIG welding?
Is an auto-darkening helmet worth it for a beginner?
Can I weld with sunglasses?
Want all of this in one PDF?
The e-book The Welder's Forge covers stick, MIG/MAG and TIG from the first arc to the shop floor, with reference tables and technical figures, in plain American English.
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