Vertical stick welding (3G): uphill technique without sagging
Vertical, gravity pulls on the weld pool the whole time. If you use the flat-position current, the metal sags, forms drips and leaves undercut at the edges. The fix is a smaller, better-controlled pool: less current, a short arc and the right motion.
Lower the current 10 to 15% from the flat position, weld uphill with the rod tilted slightly upward, run the root with a straight bead and the following passes with a triangle or half-moon weave, pausing at the edges. Use an all-position rod (E6013 or E7018).
Why the pool sags
The weld pool is liquid metal. The bigger and hotter it is, the more it weighs and the longer it takes to freeze. In the flat position the plate holds the pool. Vertical, only surface tension and fast freezing hold it. Anything that makes the pool bigger (high current, long arc, slow travel, wide weave) makes the sag worse.
How much to lower the current
| Rod | Flat position | Reduction | Vertical starting point |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5/64 in (2.0 mm) | 45–70 A | 10 to 15% | about 38–63 A |
| 3/32 in (2.4 mm) | 60–90 A | 10 to 15% | about 51–81 A |
| 1/8 in (3.2 mm) | 90–130 A | 10 to 15% | about 77–117 A |
| 5/32 in (4.0 mm) | 130–180 A | 10 to 15% | about 110–162 A |
Table 3.2 of the e-book The Welder's Forge. The last column applies the reduction to the flat-position values. Starting point: confirm with the rod package or the WPS.
In practice: if you weld well flat with a 3/32 in rod at 80 A, begin the vertical at 68–72 A and fine-tune on a scrap. The signs of too much and too little current are in the stick welding amperage chart.
Uphill or downhill?
- Uphill (3G): more penetration. It is the normal technique with stick on medium and thick plate and on structures.
- Downhill: faster and with less penetration. Used mainly on thin sheet, where the aim is not to burn through. For code or structural work, follow what the WPS allows.
The technique, step by step
- Pick the right rod. E6013 and E7018 weld in all positions. The E7024 will not do: it is flat and horizontal only.
- Lower the current following the chart.
- Set the angles. From the side, the rod is square to the joint (90° on a butt, 45° on a fillet). From the front, tilt 5 to 15° in the direction of travel, which means pointing slightly up.
- Short arc: about the diameter of the rod core.
- Straight root bead, with no weave: a narrow bead with good penetration.
- Following passes with a triangle or half-moon weave, with a quick pause at each edge to fill it. Without the pause you get undercut.
- Remove all the slag with the chipping hammer and wire brush before the next pass.
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Clamp two scraps in a T on the vertical, at chest height, and run short beads of 4 to 6 in (10 to 15 cm). Chip the slag and look: full edges and even ripples mean the current and the pause are right. Adjust in 5 A steps.
The most common vertical mistakes
- Using the flat-position current: the pool grows and drips.
- Long arc: uneven bead, spatter and weak shielding.
- Weave too wide: the pool gets big and sags.
- Rushing past the edges: undercut on both sides.
- Staying in one spot: heat builds up and the metal falls.
If the bead already came out with undercut, slag inclusion or lack of fusion, the full diagnosis is in common welding defects and how to fix them.
Overhead stick welding
Overhead, gravity works straight against you. The rules are the same, only tighter: reduced current (10 to 15% lower on rods up to 5/32 in), a very short arc and small beads. Keep any weave small, with a pause at the edges, or run stringer beads (no weave). Several narrow beads beat one wide one.
Spatter and slag fall toward you. Wear leather sleeves and a leather apron or jacket, a closed collar, a cap under the helmet and no open pockets or cuffs where a spark can lodge. Keep hot work rules in mind: clear flammables within 35 ft (11 m) and watch for fire for at least 30 minutes afterward (longer if your site rules or NFPA 51B call for it).
Frequently asked questions
How much should I lower the current for vertical welding?
Is it better to weld vertical uphill or downhill?
Which rod should I use for vertical welding?
Why does my vertical weld have undercut at the edges?
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